THE ORIGINS OF THE FRENCH LUXURY INDUSTRY

PART I — FROM ROMAN AND GAULISH TRADITIONS TO THE MIDDLE AGES

Since the beginning of humanity, survival alone has never been enough. The desire to escape the ordinary and to live better has inspired creation, refinement and greater comfort. Luxury is therefore part of civilisation and, in France, can be understood as both an art and an industry.

During the first millennium, luxury in France reflected two traditions. Roman luxury valued comfort, refinement and celebration, while Celtic (Gaulish) luxury remained simpler, based on hunting, fishing and mobility. Later, Christianity introduced a spiritual dimension, with abbeys and churches elevating luxury beyond the material world.

When the Romans settled in Gaul, their way of life spread. Wealthy Gallo-Romans built elegant villas with baths and decorated dining rooms, and developed a refined gastronomic culture. Their meals included meat from hunted animals, vegetables, mushrooms, truffles and fine wines stored in earthenware or glass jars and chilled with snow. Roman Gaul also used silver cutlery, luxurious fabrics, perfumes and precious tableware.

A Roman silver hand mirror from the fourth century. The polished silver disc served as the reflective surface.

The Gallo-Roman Treasure of Rethel, comprising sixteen silver objects dating from around 270–280.

A Roman glass perfume bottle dating from the first–second century.

Gradually, Gaulish towns adopted the Roman style, with theatres, aqueducts and monuments such as the Pont du Gard. Travel within Gaul became more efficient as a result of several advances. The Romans established a highly organised road network, among the finest in the Empire. The inhabitants used ox-drawn carts for transport by land. Rivers also facilitated travel, while advances in shipbuilding improved river transport, which was essential for the movement of people and goods.

In the West, the Middle Ages began around 476. Most people could neither read nor write and lived according to religious faith. Power was dispersed, but the Catholic Church provided unity through its teachings and monasteries. The Kingdom of the Franks began with Clovis, who converted to Catholicism and founded the first great French royal dynasty. His respect for religion strengthened his authority. France gradually gained importance despite its difficulties. During the latter part of the Middle Ages, Italy dominated through its commerce, its appreciation of beauty and its Roman heritage. This period reached its height with Charlemagne, whose imperial legacy was later adopted by the Italian elites of the Renaissance to cultivate a culture of prestige combining power, tradition and splendour.

Gold and silver, symbols of power and wealth, played an essential role in religion. Bishops and abbots carried gold objects such as the crozier, mitre and ring, often adorned with precious stones. Reliquaries and altar vessels, such as the Vase of Soissons, demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship.

A church reliquary created to preserve sacred relics, made in Limoges from gilded copper and enamel around 1225–1250.

In the fifth century, goldsmithing became a respected art. One of the most celebrated goldsmiths of this period was Eligius, later known as Saint Eligius. Trained in Limoges, he became a royal goldsmith. He was later canonised and remains the patron saint of goldsmiths and luxury. His legacy helped establish Limoges as an important centre of goldsmithing.

At the beginning of the Middle Ages, the production of fabrics and tapestries developed in France, alongside weaving techniques. In the ninth century, Bishop Angelelme of Auxerre commissioned carpets for his church. In the tenth century, a textile workshop at the Abbey of Saint-Florent de Saumur gained recognition.

A distinctive form of French luxury emerged during the first millennium, marked by a strong connection with beauty, power, taste and the sacred. Deeply rooted in religion and Roman heritage, this ancient luxury went beyond mere wealth: it expressed faith, the transmission of knowledge, hospitality and a culture of refined food. Despite the difficulties of the final century of this period, the belief in the honour owed to the creator, to creation and to its objects endured. This religious dimension shaped the very meaning of luxury and became even more pronounced during the remainder of the Middle Ages.

Charlemagne, who died in 814, was a powerful ruler of the eighth and ninth centuries. He became emperor in 800 with the ambition of recreating a unified Christian empire inspired by Rome. He promoted peace, religion, knowledge and luxury by building churches, supporting artisans and making his court a cultural centre.

Following his death in 814, the empire was divided among his grandsons, leading to its fragmentation and the end of his project. French luxury then took on new forms: religious luxury centred around cathedrals, feudal luxury around castles, and commercial luxury in fairs and new towns. This period also marked the beginnings of fashion, with clothing becoming increasingly varied.

From the eleventh century onwards, the daily lives of noble families improved through the appearance of luxury objects such as clocks, mirrors and candles, as well as more refined castles. In the thirteenth century, under the influence of the Crusades and the expansion of trade, the castle evolved into a more comfortable and aesthetically pleasing residence, inspired by Italian and Byzantine homes.

A gilded copper and enamel candlestick made in Limoges around 1180.

Floors were covered with woollen carpets, while embroidered or woven wall hangings decorated the rooms and made them warmer. The mirror became a luxury object, replacing polished metal plates. The fireplace, which became widespread during the thirteenth century, grew more elegant. New sources of lighting appeared: tallow candles, wax candles for ceremonies and oil lamps. These innovations transformed domestic comfort and left a lasting mark on Western civilisation.

(To be Continued in PART II)

Source: Adapted from the introduction to Maria de la Roque’s doctoral thesis, La construction d’un grand groupe de luxe à vocation internationale : LVMH – Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (du XVIIIe siècle à 2007), Sorbonne Université.